Solo Trips in Texas

Solo Travel in Texas

Returned recently from a trip in Texas which doesn’t sound as exotic as Bora Bora, Africa or Antarctica, but honestly, the places were just as remote.

Drove the first day all the way to Odessa, Texas, which some say is the armpit of Texas (I always think El Paso holds that distinction, but there are two armpits allowed, I suppose.) It was ironic (or is it properly called ‘tragic’—always confused about that rule) that Odessa is in the middle of all these oil wells and gas prices were close to $2 bucks a gallon. Odessa is full of friendly people, great steakhouses, and is literally an oasis in the middle of the West Texas desert.

Traveled the next day to Fort Davis, an old Calvary fort town in the middle of the Davis Mountains, and visited the McDonnell Observatory which is a research station of the University of Texas. The largest telescope is located on either the highest or second highest peak in Texas. It was focused on the sun that day and I witnessed several sun storms and black spots. Interestingly, there were so many cyclists pedaling up the mountains in that region—they must be in perfect shape to handle the inclines and the Texas sun.

I had purchased a book at Barnes and Nobles which gives detailed instruction to the 30 most scenic drives in Texas. I did 10 of these drives, which are 10 to 75 mile drives on remote farm-to-market or county roads that you normally would not travel. The West Texas bluebonnets were in full bloom and they are taller and scrubby compared to the bluebonnets in East Texas.

Stayed the night in Marfa, Texas, at the Hotel Paisano, which was the central spot for the actors in the making of the movie, “Giant”, in 1955. I asked to stay in the James Dean Suite (where in stayed until the week before his death), but it was booked. The same was the case for the Elizabeth Taylor Suite…but the clerk said “We’ve got the Rock Hudson Suite available…$170 per night”. I whined a little about the price and she cut it in half…I guess the Rock Hudson Suite is not the most sought after place…

But, he must have been the bigger star at the time of the filming, because here in the middle of nowhere, in this lush hotel, was the most amazing hotel suite…three levels, all original tile and woodwork, a kitchen, dining room, living room with fireplace, sitting room, walk in closets and built in dressing areas, huge bedroom and private patio/plaza area which alone was about 1500 square feet. The “room” had more floor space than most homes and even had a doorbell—I’d never stayed in a hotel room with a doorbell!

It was fun to be in the room…during the daytime…but I must admit, at night, all alone, in the middle of a vast desert….I got scared. I mean totally frightened. I kept imagining the 1980’s AIDS victim Rock Hudson pictured on the National Enquirer ghost was going to pop out of the bathroom. I got under the covers and was afraid to get out of bed…

Saw the Marfa Lights, which are unexplained lights—they look gaseous and can divide and come back together, dance and wiggle…all outside of Marfa, Texas. You park alongside the highway and there is this privately funded “viewing station”. I went to it with my usual pessimism thinking that someone was paid to hide in the cacti and wave a flashlight at us. But, this is no hoax. I saw about 9 glowing orbs, splitting, and wiggling right in front of me. There are three places on Earth that have these lights—somewhere in Australia; Brown Mountain in North Carolina, and Marfa, Texas.

I read the history of the lights and found out that there are three places on Earth that have this phenomenon—Australia, North Carolina, and Marfa, Texas. These lights have been seen for over 150 years.

Other points of interest:

--The scenic drives from Marfa to Presidio, then Presidio to Lajitas had some of the most beautiful surroundings I’ve ever seen. Huge rocky mountains (shaped like elephants or donkey ears or…whatever you imagine), blooming cactus plants and acres of wildflowers spread like colorful quilts.

--For years, weathermen on news reports always mentioned the hottest spot in the country—Presidio, Texas…Well, for the past couple of years, that hasn’t been the case. City leaders and the Chamber of Commerce have banned anyone in Presidio from reporting the temperature to ANY news agency. This was done in order to NOT discourage visitors!

--The Big Bend area of Texas (I always thought it was Big Ben…like the clock tower in London) is really remarkable. So remote—it’s a day and a half of HARD driving from Tyler, but so naturally beautiful. Truly, it’s the last frontier of Texas. There were many times that I could drive 2 or 3 hours and never see anyone else.

--Toured Brackettville, the Alamo City, where so many films including “The Alamo” were filmed. Toured Judge Roy Bean’s law west of the Pecos, Terlingua, Lajitas, many other little towns along the way. Uvalde, Kerrville, Fredericksburg, Luckenbach—great drives throughout the Hill Country.

--A swarm of bees flooded my car at one point—I had all four windows rolled down and came upon this black cloud of bees which all entered the Durango…then exited…except one angry, lonely bee. I did the side of the road try-not-to-get-stung dance and got rid of that one.

--Great scenic drives from Uvalde to Kerrville to Fredericksburg to Luckenbach (there are no highway signs with the name ‘Luckenbach’ on ‘em since everyone steals them—thanks to Willie, Waylon and the Boys) to Llano. Great bluebonnets and some Indian paintbrushes.

Next trip? North Carolina next week and I’m planning to find Brown Mountain and see the mysterious lights. Also, Jim Faires and I will return to Mt. Airy, the hometown of Andy Griffith and the basis for Mayberry in his 1960’s TV show. Oddly, the original Siamese twins, Ang and Chang, are buried there. They became famous in Ziegfield Follies and made a fortune and built separate homes near Mt. Airy. They would spend time alternating between homes and the twin who was the “visitor” could not speak in his brother’s home and had to wait until the next day when they visited his home! More later.

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